Blackwork Gown  page    1  2   3  4

 Arnold, Patterns of Fashion. pg. 101 c 1580-1600
I based the shape of the sleeves on this pattern but added a wider cuff and more fabric on the shoulder.

As mentioned earlier,  I intended the sleeves and partlet ot be the center of attention. Embroidery is not one of my talents. I can do a minimum amount of blackwork and cross stitch, but the amount of work that the sleeves and partlet would require is quite beyond my capabilities. I was getting ready to do a "blackwork" look by drawing on the sleeves in black ink then cover the sleeve with organza. On a trip to JC Penney's with my mother-in-law, I found two peasant blouses that buttoned up the front for nine bucks each. I was ecstatic! I took the blouses home and to my mother-in-law's surprise, began to dismantle them. I used the solid piece on the back for each sleeve and part of the front of the blouse for the partlet. I then added pearls. The sleeves are lined with a cotton quilted backing to give the sleeve body. Two black satin buttons close the cuff and hooks attach the sleeve to the bodice

I made the sleeve separate. The sleeves hook on to eye that are sewn on the bodice

Partlet

Detail of cartridge pleats
I made this hat to go with the blackwork gown. It is a later version of a French hood.