Black Suede Outfit                                                           page 1   2
 

(above) Side view with doublet unbuttoned.
(PS I know the shirt isn't period)

(right) Detail view of trunk hosen

      I base all the doublets I make  from a doublet pattern found in "Patterns of Fashion" Brad prefers a more relaxed collar. I got the basic idea for the doublet and then made some modifications to make it easier.

     I make the pants or "slops" from my own pattern based off of the period examples. Individual strips of fabric are cut into rectangles the length of the waist to above the knee. The strips are lined. Then I stitch the strips onto the waist and leg bands. The lining is then added on the next layer.

     I have placed a detailed pattern and instructions on making basic trunk hosen  in the "Tudor Techniques" section. 


Back view of doublet and trunk hosen
Arnold, Patterns of Fashion pg. 73

I used the basic pattern for the doublets. The only alteration I made was to do the collar differently. I used a usual neck curve then stitched a single piece that server as the collar

Arnold, Patterns of Fashion. pg. 21. fig. 126

(above) Detail view of black silk lining

(right) Sleeve pattern
Arnold, Patterns of Fashion. pg. 61