Black brocade gown with jacket page 1   2

Detail front view

Arnold, QEWU page 127. fig.197. Mary Denton aged 15 c1573 

     I got the idea for the jacket from the painting on the left. The 3/4 sleeves from the doublet on the left (fig 132). The jacket is built on the same lines as the red silk doublet but with the collar as part of the main body pieces. The sleeves are sewn into the body of the jacket and lined with a black cotton. 
    It hooks together with black velvet interfacing and silk lining on the inside

Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 
pg. 21. Fig. 132 

Alonzo Sanchez Coello 
Elisabeth of Valois
I based the undersleeves on those seen on the portrait of Elisabeth of Valois. The sleeves are diagonally slashed.  The technique that I used was to lay the sleeves flat. I then marked where the slashes would be, I then stitched around the marks. After cutting the slashes I then turned the piece inside out. The loop were inserted and slashes to stitched. The seam was then sewn with the lining whip stitched in place. I then added the 
button and hooks to attach it to the bodice. The full sleeves of the chemise 
are pulled though the “slashes”. Ruff cuffs are worn under the sleeve. 

The overskirt is cartridge pleated 

Fringe on overskirt to protect hem.

Detail of undersleeves


Arnold, QEWU pg. 185