Detail front view
Arnold, QEWU page 127. fig.197. Mary Denton aged 15 c1573
| Black brocade gown with jacket | page 1 2 |
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Detail front view |
Arnold, QEWU page 127. fig.197. Mary Denton aged 15 c1573 |
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I got the idea for the jacket from the painting on the left. The 3/4 sleeves from the doublet on the left (fig 132). The jacket is built on the same lines as the red silk doublet but with the collar as part of the main body pieces. The sleeves are sewn into the body of the jacket and lined with a black cotton. It hooks together with black velvet interfacing and silk lining on the inside |
Arnold, Patterns of Fashion pg. 21. Fig. 132 |
Alonzo Sanchez Coello Elisabeth of Valois |
I based the undersleeves on those seen on the portrait
of Elisabeth of Valois. The sleeves are diagonally slashed. The technique
that I used was to lay the sleeves flat. I then marked where the slashes
would be, I then stitched around the marks. After cutting the slashes I
then turned the piece inside out. The loop were inserted and slashes to
stitched. The seam was then sewn with the lining whip stitched in place.
I then added the
button and hooks to attach it to the bodice. The full sleeves of the chemise are pulled though the “slashes”. Ruff cuffs are worn under the sleeve. 
The overskirt is cartridge pleated
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Detail of undersleeves
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