Black and red gown
over drum
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     I decided for a “softer” drum  rather then the  rigid one seen in theDitcherly Portrait and portraits during the last decade of Elizabeth’s reign.

Detail from “Evening Ball for the wedding of the Duc de Joyerse” c 1582-82.  Example of a “softer” drum farthingale.

Back view

Another difficult decision was deciding whether or not to make a gown that had the extra “ruffle” around the top of the farthingale. In period, the ruffle would be pinned in place. I though the stress on the brocade and the inconvenience of pinning it each time I wanted to wear it. Another technique was running a thread to gather the skirt. Again the stress on the fabric and the difficulty in storing such a gown caused me to decide on (for now) the smoother version. 

Close up of cartridge pleating

(above) Arnold, QEWU pg.185 Documentation for the use of fringe to protect hem. In this case it also protects the row of pearls.
(below) Detail of overskirt