Step 2: Mark the pleats
First, determine the number and spacing of pleats. I have
found that lace and other thinner materials look best with pleats every
centimeter. Thicker fabric such as ribbon look best every half inch.
Mark the pleats on one side all along the length of the
band. Turn the band 180 degrees to work on the parallel side.
THIS IS IMPORTANT
Place the first mark 1/2 of the pleat distance from the
end of the band. (i.e. 1/2 inch = 1/4 inch) Then continue the marks along
the length of the band.
The end result is the marks will be offset from each other.
An imaginary line connecting the marks back and forth between the two side
would look a zigzag.
When marking the cuffs or a band that will be worn under
a doublet or partlet first draw a line parallel to the length of the band
at the desired width of the ruff. I usually make my width more narrow then
the neck ruff. (example 1.5 inch neck width would have 1 inch cuff width)
(NOTE) When making a neck ruff using the cuff technique
do not make the ruff part too wide because it must set on top of a collar.
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