I first
got the idea for this gown from the portrait of Elizabeth at Greenwich.
I wanted to have the large worked undersleeves with the over sleeves framing
with the tuffs of fabric caught with jewels and pearls. The first generation
of the crimson gown did not have the under skirt. I made it with the two
rows of trim and jewels going down the front of the bodice and overskirt.
I also made a large ruff to wear with it (or at least as large as I could
deal with!)
Also keeping in mind that I would be wearing
this outfit in Oklahoma and/or Texas, I decided against the higher neck
line. I opted for a lower square line. At the time I was also undergoing
total facial reconstruction and was unsure if I would be able to stand
stuff around my face.
When I built the bodice I followed the example
in Janet Arnold’s “Patterns of Fashion”. One alteration that I made (and
make for all my gowns) is to raise the back of the neckline to compensate
for my rather small shoulders. Had I built it exactly to specifications
I most likely would have have trouble keeping it in place.
The bodice laces up the sides and is lined
with cotton broadcloth for comfort. In the front part I re-enforced the
shape with buckram
and light boning
Arnold, Patterns of Fashion. Page 104 circa 1562
Bodice- flat front view
|
Queen Elizabeth I Attributed to John Bettes.
c. 1586-87.
Bodice- flat back view |